Albergo Palazzo Decumani, an oasis of historic gentility in Naple’s liveliest neighborhood, is a beautifully restored 17th c. palazzo on a little square next to the Archivo Nationale. As you enter the hotel, you cannot help being impressed by the palazzo’s original spiral staircase that winds 5-stories up the heart of the hotel. It is functional, but not to worry, there is an elevator. My room, large bright and airy with windows and French doors opening to a small iron balcony, could be noisy if they were open, but double panes and noise-muffling curtains eliminated most of that, so I slept well every night. The hotel staff were all professional and personable, but Barbara and Vera were exceptionally friendly and helpful. Being from Naples, they knew all the best restaurants, sights…and were simply wonderful!